Saturday as tourists and Sunday in a Maasai village

Saturday saw the team split into two groups—hikers and non-hikers.   The non hikers, Glennis, Emily H, Pati, Elise, Sophia and Cindy were joined by Nova, Kristen, Jennifer (Kristen’s roommate) and Kadege, our Maasai guide and we all piled into Barbara’s Land Cruiser for the short trip to the Maasai cattle market.   There was a bit of gloating going on between the two groups as the hikers had to make a very early start—before breakfast—while the non-hikers slept in and began their day around 10 am. 

Kristen works with an organization called the Mission Society and is assigned to the diocese here in Morogoro.  She was raised in Iowa and she has been in Morogoro for more than two years.  She is fluent in Swahili and her help with contacts and translation over the past two years has been much appreciated.  Her boyfriend, Tisho, is a Maasai who has also helped the team with translation.  Tisho agreed to guide the hikers up Mount Uluguru.

Emily S, Jamie, Cassie, Brooke, Michelle, Bill and Doug tackled the steep climb up the mountain, which goes to a house about 2/3 of the way up the peak that was built in 1911 as a retreat for German missionaries.  Michelle and Cassie set a brisk pace and the hikers reached Morningside in two hours.  The path up is unusually steep and goes within a couple feet of several private homes.  As they were resting at the top, Tisho’s phone rang and he handed it to Doug—Matron needed his guidance on one of the surgical patients from the prior day.  The return trip took only an hour and Tisho dropped all but Doug back at LJS around 2pm before taking Doug to Mazimbu to check on his patient.

For the other half of our story, the cattle market was a very large area where Maasai from surrounding areas come to buy or sell their cattle or goats.  Tradesmen also set up stalls to sell goods and crafts and there is an area sheltered by trees for those who want food or drink.  Kadege took the team through each area, answering questions and helping with negotiations for purchases.  The team enjoyed shopping for unique Maasai souveniers—knives, sheaths, clubs, stirring rods, long thin hiking sticks, fabric and many other items.  Elise, who is a pre-vet student with a goal to practice animal science among cows, was particularly entranced.  She is working on a presentation for a class that will give her 3 credit hours and found much fodder for her research at the cattle market.

Sunday arrived and the team had the opportunity to worship at two services.  Barbara’s home church of Bungo is in downtown Morogoro and she invited the team to be with her at the early service where she made a special offering in thanks for her years here in Tanzania.  After Bungo, we travelled to Tisho’s family village of Melela Kibao where we were invited to join them for worship. 

Guests in a Maasai village are always hosted with food and drink.  When we arrived at 10:30 (for a 10 am service) we were greeted warmly by Tisho’s mother and his other 3 mothers.  Traditionally Maasai practice polygamy and the KKKT does not try to change that for men who convert that are already married to more than one woman.  However, polygamy is not allowed for Christian Maasai who wish to marry.  Each wife has their own house and the semicircular grouping of homes for a family are arranged to provide shelter for their livestock.  Tisho’s mother ushered us into her small sitting room where benches were ready for us.   We were offered a fragrant chai tea with chapati, similar to crepes, and squash.  Tea was a leisurely affair and Kristen warned us not to be concerned about time.  We were fairly sure the worship would not start without us since we were honored guests and expected.  Shortly before noon Tisho led us on a path through the bush to the wattle and daub church.  Tisho’s father had us sit on benches at the front of the small church where we were treated to the girl’s choir singing to a drumming accompaniment and dancing choreographed steps.   We were taking photos and video and were surprised when one of the women in the church turned her cell phone on the team and began videoing us in return! 

The service began at 12:30, almost 2 ½ hours later than scheduled, when the travelling evangelist arrived.  Maasai sub-parishes must be numerous to allow the villagers, who travel by foot, to have a church within a reasonable distance.  There are not enough pastors for all of the churches so sub-parishes have been established and an evangelist, or travelling preacher, is assigned to two sub-parishes.  He will preach a service at 10 and then a second in a different location later in the day.  The start of the service is determined by when the evangelist arrives.

Worship normally lasts for 2 hours or longer.  This tiny church had only the small girls’ choir but some churches have 2 or 3 choirs and each choir will have their part in worship.   There are usually several offerings—each with a designated purpose—and the congregation stands and walks (or dances!) to the collection basket to make their gift. 

After the service, we all exited single file, forming a circle outside and shaking each person’s hand in the process.  Sophia added her hand-made necklace to the offering and an auction was held to find the new owner of this prize.  The bidding was fun and light hearted and the winner paid the winning bid to the church and gave Sophia a big hug of appreciation.

As we left the church down a path different that the one taken earlier, Tisho explained that the site chosen for the building was subject to flooding during even a mild rain.   So the village is looking for a better site and will try to raise the funds to build.  The money raised so far has been enough to get several truckloads of rough blocks that will be used to shore up the foundation and he led us to this building site.

When we arrived back in Tisho’s home a meal had been prepared for us.  We sat on benches under a tree and were given rice and cubes of beef in a delicious milky broth.  After our meal the women brought out some of their hand-made beaded jewelry and smiles were on both sides as goods changed hands.  As our time drew to a close we took photos for all of us and bid this wonderful family goodbye.